Introduction
​Celery, cutting celery, and celeriac all share the scientific name, Apium graveolens, meaning they are the same species. When most people think of celery, they think of the thicker, rib-containing stalk. Celery also grows thinner stalks around the outside of the plant and lots of leaves, both of which are usually trimmed for sale in grocery stores. Celery has a reputation for being difficult to grow; however, newer hybrid varieties do well even under warm, dry conditions. Please see my earlier post on how to grow celery if you want more information on growing celery in the garden.
​Alternatively, you can grow cutting celery, also known as seasoning celery, which has very skinny ribs with lots of leaves. These are easier to grow than traditional celery and are used dry or fresh to season soups and stews. Celeriac, although genetically the same as regular celery, is not eaten for its ribs or leaves (they can be strongly flavored), but forms a large root that has a mild celery flavor. The root can be puréed, like mashed potatoes, roasted, or used in soups. Celeriac is also a great option as a replacement for potatoes or as a blend, as it has roughly half the carbohydrates and calories that potatoes have. Below I have listed some of the more common varieties of celery and celeriac, including whether they are open-pollinated or hybrid, days to maturity, any disease resistance, and any other notes I think may be of interest. Celery Varieties
Celeriac Varieties
References and Resources
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 Growing CeleryI always thought that growing celery (Apium graveolens) was difficult and required very moist conditions. However, there are now wide varieties of celery, many that are better adapted to drier growing conditions. One detail I learned after growing celery is that the bunches you buy at the store are the inner part of the plant. Celery also grows many outer ribs that are much narrower than the inner part of the celery. These outer ribs can be used just like regular celery. I like them in soups or stews, or I blanch and dehydrate them for celery powder. Favorite VarietiesCelery is one plant for which I prefer hybrid varieties over open-pollinated. I have tried several open-pollinated varieties but found they do not grow as well and are more bitter than the hybrid varieties I have tried. One caveat is that I have not tried blanching celery (keeping the stalks in the dark during the growing season and before harvest), which is supposed to keep it less bitter. One of the first hybrid varieties I tried was Tango, and I had great success. It grew well and is a faster-maturing variety at approximately 85 days. The next hybrid I tried is Kelvin, and since I have grown that variety, it is the only one I have grown. It is like Tango, vigorous and low maintenance, but I feel it does better with hot temperatures (please note, I live in Wisconsin, and my “hot” temperatures are nowhere close to what other parts of the country can hit) and lower moisture levels. It is also a faster-maturing variety at about 80 days. I use drip tape or soaker hoses connected to a timer throughout my garden, so this does help keep the soil evenly moist. Starting Celery From SeedCelery is one of the first seeds I start, about ten weeks before the average last frost date, because it is slow to germinate and grow. Celery seeds require light to germinate, so gently press them into your seed-starting mix when sowing seeds. A heat mat can help germinate the seeds if your grow room is cool, 70-75°F is ideal. After the seeds germinate, you can remove them from the heat mat and keep them at 60-70°F. I start fertilizing with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer at 1/4 strength, once the seedlings get true leaves. You can transplant them to a larger pot when they have at least 2 true leaves, if you started them in smaller grow trays; I use 3.5” pots. Celery likes cooler weather, but cold temperatures can cause premature bolting, so keep them above 45°F when hardening them off. I transplant into my garden about a week after my average last frost date.  Tiny celery seedlings soon after germination (center row). Growing CeleryKeep celery well-mulched to maximize soil moisture and control weeds. Using a timer-controlled irrigation system helps keep the soil consistently moist. Celery is a heavy feeder, so ensure your soil is healthy before planting. Compost or composted manure is a great addition to any soil. I also fertilize monthly throughout the growing season with a high-nitrogen fertilizer such as blood meal or fish emulsion. Harvesting CeleryThe entire stalk (plant) of celery can be harvested when it is large enough for your use, or individual ribs can be removed as needed. I have found that if I leave celery in the garden all summer, the plants often start bolting closer to fall. If you want to collect celery seed, you can let some plants bolt. I find my growing season (zone 4b) is unfortunately too short to harvest seed.  A monster celery I harvested that measured 30 inches tall! Celery DiseasesI have had some problems with celery growing misshapen and twisted with brown spots/streaks in the ribs. I have not had my celery tested for disease, but I believe it is either aster yellows, a disease caused by a phytoplasma, a bacteria-like organism, or leaf curl caused by anthracnose, a fungus. Aster yellows is transmitted by insects that feed on the celery plant. If you can stop the insect from feeding, you can control the disease, but once infected, there is no way to treat the plant. Since I am not sure whether I have a fungal disease or a phytoplasma disease, I do not treat my plants. Instead, when I find diseased plants, I pull them to prevent further spread, but I have never lost all my plants in a growing season. CautionVery rarely, the foliage of celery and related plants (celeriac) can cause a reaction of the skin called photosensitivity or phytophotodermatitis. Compounds in celery, called psoralens, can cause blistering of the skin following exposure to sunlight. This is mostly seen in workers who harvest celery due to the extended time they spend in contact with the vegetation. However, on sunny days, it may be best to wear long sleeves and gloves when handling celery. ConclusionI highly recommend trying to grow celery in your garden. I was intimidated by growing celery because I thought it was something only commercial growers could reliably produce. But I find celery is one of the easier vegetables to grow in the garden, and it has been a staple in my garden from the first year I tried it. References
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AuthorIn 2016, my family and I moved from the New York City area to a small town in Wisconsin. Our move, this website and blog (and our previous Etsy store) is the result of our desire over the past several years to simplify our lives, enhance our quality of life, reconnect with nature, and enjoy a more self-sufficient life. I grew up as a country kid in central Pennsylvania, working on my grandfather's fruit farm and as a corn "de-tassler" at a local seed farm. My background is in biology, where my love of nature originated. I am a former research scientist and professor and have now transitioned to a part-time stay-at-home mom, self-employed tutor, and small business owner. Thank you for taking the time to check out my site. Archives
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