 Introduction to Beets Beet (Beta vulgaris) usually refers to the root portion of the crop. Other names for beets are beetroot, garden beet, mangel, or mangelwurzel (fodder beets for animals). The greens are also edible, however, and were the first part of the plant to be eaten along the Mediterranean coasts (sea beets) before the Romans cultivated it for its root. Besides beetroot, other varieties of B. vulgaris include sugar beets and Swiss chard. Beets are biennials, which means they grow during the first year and produce in their second. How to Grow Beets You can plant beets as a spring or fall crop. Beets are reasonably cold-hardy; the roots can tolerate temperatures as low as 12-15°F, but the leaves are more sensitive and may get damaged or die back at temperatures around 28-32°F. You can sow beet seed almost as soon as the ground can be worked in spring, although they will germinate better at warmer temperatures. The soil must be at least 40-45°F for germination, but seeds will germinate much better at 60–85°F. Directly sow or start beets earlier inside or in a cold-frame about 5-6 weeks before the average last hard frost date. Then transplant into an in-ground garden or raised bed. Plant about 3 inches apart. I have always direct-seeded my beets, often using homemade seed tape (see my earlier blog post) to reduce thinning. However, beet seeds often give 2-4 plants per seed, so they still require extensive thinning. You can eat the early seedlings as baby salad greens. For full-sized beets, thin to at least 3" apart. Like most root crops, beets prefer light, nutrient-rich soil and relatively high amounts of water, at least 1 inch per week. Preferably, use a soaker hose or drip tape to water to reduce the chances of fungal diseases on the leaves. Pests and DiseaseSome of the most common pests that affect beets include leafminers, flea beetles, root-knot nematodes, aphids, wireworms, and beet webworms. However, the pests and diseases that affect crops can vary from one geographical location to another. To determine which pests are commonly found in your area, I suggest looking up local resources such as Agricultural Extension publications from your state. I look for information from the University of Wisconsin, the University of Minnesota, or Michigan State University, as these three extension offices publish excellent resources that are local to my area of the Upper Midwest. Leafminers are fly larvae that burrow into the middle of the leaf between the upper and lower layers of epidermis. A leafminer fly lays eggs on the underside of the leaves, which then hatch into larvae, causing damage. If you see thin tracks on your beet leaves, there are larvae inside that are tunneling through the plant tissue. The easiest way to deal with leafminers is to remove and discard (do not compost) affected leaves. Flea beetles are tiny black beetles that jump like fleas. They eat holes in the leaves of plants and are most damaging when plants are young and more susceptible to damage. The best way to deter flea beetles is to cover crops with insect netting, particularly when young. Because beets are a root and leaf crop and do not require pollination, insect netting can be left over the beets for the entire season. Wireworms eat the roots of plants, and in the case of root vegetables, they can be very damaging. Please see my earlier post on wireworms for more information, but briefly, using potatoes as a trap nearby can help keep wireworms under control. Root-knot nematodes are very tiny worms that can damage the roots of plants, including beets. The best way to deal with nematodes is to practice crop rotation. However, many other common crops are also affected by the same type of nematodes, so it is recommended to rotate with crops that are not susceptible, including alfalfa, corn, grains, hay, wheat, or soybeans. Do not plant other types of beans, peas, carrots, or tomatoes before or after beets, as they also have a tendency to build up nematodes. Aphids can also affect beets, but they are usually easy to deal with by spraying them off with water. If they keep coming back, you can try an insecticidal soap to smother them. Beet webworms are the larvae of a moth that form web structures in beet greens and can skeletonize the leaves. These worms, technically caterpillars, can be handpicked or sprayed with an insecticide. Various diseases can also affect beets, including bacterial leaf spot (BLS), downy mildew (DM), powdery mildew (PM), Cercospora leaf spot (CLS), scab, and Rhizoctonia root and crown rot (RRCR). These diseases are worse in rainier or more humid climates. Make sure plants are well-spaced, remove plant debris throughout the growing season, and rotate crops to help reduce disease incidence. There are also many beet varieties (see my earlier blog post for more information) that are disease-resistant, which is useful if you have a disease that is a consistent problem in your area. I consistently have a problem with CLS, which causes target-like circles in the leaves, and I plan to trial some CLS-resistant varieties this year. Harvest and StorageHarvest beets when young and small as baby beets or allow them to mature into full-sized beets. If left too long, beet roots can become fibrous or woody. You can also eat beet greens, similar to Swiss chard, either picked young as baby leaves or full-sized. Store beets with their tops on up to 10 days in a cold refrigerator, about 32°F, but for longer storage of beets, cut off the tops, wash and store up to 6 months at 32°F. Either storage method is improved by high humidity and by growing beet varieties known for their storage potential. See my other blog post on Beet Varieties for more information. UsageBeets are not one of the most popular food crops in America. Their “earthy” flavor puts many people off. If you do not like beets, I suggest trying one of the “golden” varieties (see my blog post on Beet Varieties), which are sweeter and less earthy than many red beets. People commonly eat beets pickled, roasted (my favorite, with other root vegetables), or classically in Russian borscht soup.
0 Comments
Beet Varieties
Beets (Beta vulgaris), also known as beetroots, are the root portion of the beet plant, although the leaves are also eaten. Other cultivars under Beta vulgaris include sugar beets, mangelwurzel or fodder beets, and Swiss chard, which is basically beet greens without the root swelling. Here, I cover some of the main varieties of beets (not Swiss chard), including whether they are hybrid (F1) or open-pollinated (OP) varieties, their days to maturity, the color of the beetroot, and any other information that may be interesting, including any disease-resistance, when known. If you wish to learn more about how to grow beets, please see my other blog post (coming soon). Days to maturity in the chart usually refer to mature roots, unless otherwise stated. If you prefer baby leaves or baby beets, the number of days is closer to 35-40 days. Disease resistance in the chart is given as abbreviations. The list of abbreviations is listed below:
BLS - Bacterial Leaf Spot CLS - Cercospora Leaf Spot DM - Downy Mildew PM - Powdery Mildew RRCR - Rhizoctonia Root and Crown Rot
References and Resources
|
AuthorIn 2016, my family and I moved from the New York City area to small town Wisconsin. Our move, this website and blog (and our previous Etsy store) is the result of our desire over the past several years to simplify our lives, increase our quality of life, reconnect with nature, and enjoy a more self-sufficient life. I grew up as a country kid in central Pennsylvania working on my grandfather's fruit farm and as a corn "de-tassler" at a local seed farm. My background is in biology where my love of nature originated. I am a former research scientist and professor and have now transitioned to a part-time stay-at-home mom, self-employed tutor, and small business owner. Thank you for taking the time to check out my site. Archives
March 2026
Categories
All
|
RSS Feed