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If you start a lot of your own seeds, as I do, it may be helpful to make your own seed-starting mix. You can buy small bags or bricks of seed-starting mix, but I have a hard time finding larger bags locally, so I end up buying quite a few small bags each year. Last year, I experimented with making my own seed-starting mix, which worked well enough that I used it again this year. So far, I have again been getting great germination and growth. I calculated a rough price for my mix and compared it to the cost of the pre-made bags. It was about the same or even a little more for the make-your-own mix. However, I think the make-your-own mix is superior because the worm castings or compost add nutrients like nitrogen, but not so much that it burns the seedlings, and the addition of perlite and vermiculite helps with drainage and water retention. However, if you wish to save money, you can use a cheaper compost than worm castings or even skip it entirely, as seedlings do not need much nutrition the first couple of weeks they grow. You can always use a liquid fertilizer when necessary. I also make a large batch at a time, usually enough to get me through the season without having to open a new bag every few days. With seed-starting mixes, you can choose a peat- or coco coir-based mix. Canadian peat moss is more sustainable than most other peat, so I buy that. Some people prefer coco coir, but you need to buy a reputable brand, as some can have high salt levels that need to be rinsed out by either the manufacturer or consumer after purchase. Seed Starting Mix5 gallons (20 quarts) of coco coir or peat moss 8 quarts perlite 8 quarts vermiculite 4 pounds worm castings (mushroom compost or other types of compost would also work here) ¼ cup pelletized lime (if using peat moss, dissolved in water) I based this mix on the bag sizes available at my local gardening store (for example, perlite, vermiculite, and worm castings all come in the amounts listed above). If you can easily access bags of different sizes, you can adjust the recipe or add a little more or less depending on what you can find. I purchase a large bag of peat moss and measure the amount needed using a 5-gallon bucket. So, each compressed bag of peat should make at least three batches of this seed-starting mix. Peat moss is acidic, so lime is added (lime is basic). Lime should not be necessary if you use coco coir instead of peat. I like to dissolve the lime in water before I add it to the other ingredients, so it mixes in more evenly. Altogether, this makes a 6-gallon batch of seed-starting mix, so make sure you have a big enough container to mix it in or cut the recipe down. If you wish to adjust this recipe to make your own potting soil mix for transplanting the seedlings, I recommend increasing the compost and decreasing the peat moss or coco coir by the same amount, so there are more nutrients available for the growing plants.
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Introduction
​Celery, cutting celery, and celeriac all share the scientific name, Apium graveolens, meaning they are the same species. When most people think of celery, they think of the thicker, rib-containing stalk. Celery also grows thinner stalks around the outside of the plant and lots of leaves, both of which are usually trimmed for sale in grocery stores. Celery has a reputation for being difficult to grow; however, newer hybrid varieties do well even under warm, dry conditions. Please see my earlier post on how to grow celery if you want more information on growing celery in the garden.
​Alternatively, you can grow cutting celery, also known as seasoning celery, which has very skinny ribs with lots of leaves. These are easier to grow than traditional celery and are used dry or fresh to season soups and stews. Celeriac, although genetically the same as regular celery, is not eaten for its ribs or leaves (they can be strongly flavored), but forms a large root that has a mild celery flavor. The root can be puréed, like mashed potatoes, roasted, or used in soups. Celeriac is also a great option as a replacement for potatoes or as a blend, as it has roughly half the carbohydrates and calories that potatoes have. Below I have listed some of the more common varieties of celery and celeriac, including whether they are open-pollinated or hybrid, days to maturity, any disease resistance, and any other notes I think may be of interest. Celery Varieties
Celeriac Varieties
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AuthorIn 2016, my family and I moved from the New York City area to a small town in Wisconsin. Our move, this website and blog (and our previous Etsy store) is the result of our desire over the past several years to simplify our lives, enhance our quality of life, reconnect with nature, and enjoy a more self-sufficient life. I grew up as a country kid in central Pennsylvania, working on my grandfather's fruit farm and as a corn "de-tassler" at a local seed farm. My background is in biology, where my love of nature originated. I am a former research scientist and professor and have now transitioned to a part-time stay-at-home mom, self-employed tutor, and small business owner. Thank you for taking the time to check out my site. Archives
April 2026
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