 Introduction to Beets Beet (Beta vulgaris) usually refers to the root portion of the crop. Other names for beets are beetroot, garden beet, mangel, or mangelwurzel (fodder beets for animals). The greens are also edible, however, and were the first part of the plant to be eaten along the Mediterranean coasts (sea beets) before the Romans cultivated it for its root. Besides beetroot, other varieties of B. vulgaris include sugar beets and Swiss chard. Beets are biennials, which means they grow during the first year and produce in their second. How to Grow Beets You can plant beets as a spring or fall crop. Beets are reasonably cold-hardy; the roots can tolerate temperatures as low as 12-15°F, but the leaves are more sensitive and may get damaged or die back at temperatures around 28-32°F. You can sow beet seed almost as soon as the ground can be worked in spring, although they will germinate better at warmer temperatures. The soil must be at least 40-45°F for germination, but seeds will germinate much better at 60–85°F. Directly sow or start beets earlier inside or in a cold-frame about 5-6 weeks before the average last hard frost date. Then transplant into an in-ground garden or raised bed. Plant about 3 inches apart. I have always direct-seeded my beets, often using homemade seed tape (see my earlier blog post) to reduce thinning. However, beet seeds often give 2-4 plants per seed, so they still require extensive thinning. You can eat the early seedlings as baby salad greens. For full-sized beets, thin to at least 3" apart. Like most root crops, beets prefer light, nutrient-rich soil and relatively high amounts of water, at least 1 inch per week. Preferably, use a soaker hose or drip tape to water to reduce the chances of fungal diseases on the leaves. Pests and DiseaseSome of the most common pests that affect beets include leafminers, flea beetles, root-knot nematodes, aphids, wireworms, and beet webworms. However, the pests and diseases that affect crops can vary from one geographical location to another. To determine which pests are commonly found in your area, I suggest looking up local resources such as Agricultural Extension publications from your state. I look for information from the University of Wisconsin, the University of Minnesota, or Michigan State University, as these three extension offices publish excellent resources that are local to my area of the Upper Midwest. Leafminers are fly larvae that burrow into the middle of the leaf between the upper and lower layers of epidermis. A leafminer fly lays eggs on the underside of the leaves, which then hatch into larvae, causing damage. If you see thin tracks on your beet leaves, there are larvae inside that are tunneling through the plant tissue. The easiest way to deal with leafminers is to remove and discard (do not compost) affected leaves. Flea beetles are tiny black beetles that jump like fleas. They eat holes in the leaves of plants and are most damaging when plants are young and more susceptible to damage. The best way to deter flea beetles is to cover crops with insect netting, particularly when young. Because beets are a root and leaf crop and do not require pollination, insect netting can be left over the beets for the entire season. Wireworms eat the roots of plants, and in the case of root vegetables, they can be very damaging. Please see my earlier post on wireworms for more information, but briefly, using potatoes as a trap nearby can help keep wireworms under control. Root-knot nematodes are very tiny worms that can damage the roots of plants, including beets. The best way to deal with nematodes is to practice crop rotation. However, many other common crops are also affected by the same type of nematodes, so it is recommended to rotate with crops that are not susceptible, including alfalfa, corn, grains, hay, wheat, or soybeans. Do not plant other types of beans, peas, carrots, or tomatoes before or after beets, as they also have a tendency to build up nematodes. Aphids can also affect beets, but they are usually easy to deal with by spraying them off with water. If they keep coming back, you can try an insecticidal soap to smother them. Beet webworms are the larvae of a moth that form web structures in beet greens and can skeletonize the leaves. These worms, technically caterpillars, can be handpicked or sprayed with an insecticide. Various diseases can also affect beets, including bacterial leaf spot (BLS), downy mildew (DM), powdery mildew (PM), Cercospora leaf spot (CLS), scab, and Rhizoctonia root and crown rot (RRCR). These diseases are worse in rainier or more humid climates. Make sure plants are well-spaced, remove plant debris throughout the growing season, and rotate crops to help reduce disease incidence. There are also many beet varieties (see my earlier blog post for more information) that are disease-resistant, which is useful if you have a disease that is a consistent problem in your area. I consistently have a problem with CLS, which causes target-like circles in the leaves, and I plan to trial some CLS-resistant varieties this year. Harvest and StorageHarvest beets when young and small as baby beets or allow them to mature into full-sized beets. If left too long, beet roots can become fibrous or woody. You can also eat beet greens, similar to Swiss chard, either picked young as baby leaves or full-sized. Store beets with their tops on up to 10 days in a cold refrigerator, about 32°F, but for longer storage of beets, cut off the tops, wash and store up to 6 months at 32°F. Either storage method is improved by high humidity and by growing beet varieties known for their storage potential. See my other blog post on Beet Varieties for more information. UsageBeets are not one of the most popular food crops in America. Their “earthy” flavor puts many people off. If you do not like beets, I suggest trying one of the “golden” varieties (see my blog post on Beet Varieties), which are sweeter and less earthy than many red beets. People commonly eat beets pickled, roasted (my favorite, with other root vegetables), or classically in Russian borscht soup.
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Beet Varieties
Beets (Beta vulgaris), also known as beetroots, are the root portion of the beet plant, although the leaves are also eaten. Other cultivars under Beta vulgaris include sugar beets, mangelwurzel or fodder beets, and Swiss chard, which is basically beet greens without the root swelling. Here, I cover some of the main varieties of beets (not Swiss chard), including whether they are hybrid (F1) or open-pollinated (OP) varieties, their days to maturity, the color of the beetroot, and any other information that may be interesting, including any disease-resistance, when known. If you wish to learn more about how to grow beets, please see my other blog post (coming soon). Days to maturity in the chart usually refer to mature roots, unless otherwise stated. If you prefer baby leaves or baby beets, the number of days is closer to 35-40 days. Disease resistance in the chart is given as abbreviations. The list of abbreviations is listed below:
BLS - Bacterial Leaf Spot CLS - Cercospora Leaf Spot DM - Downy Mildew PM - Powdery Mildew RRCR - Rhizoctonia Root and Crown Rot
References and Resources
Growing EggplantsEggplants (Solanum melongena), also known as aubergines, are in the nightshade family (Solanaceae) along with tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes. The most well-known eggplants have the scientific name of Solanum melongena, although another less common species is S. aethiopicum (also known as S. integrifolium or S. gilo depending on where the eggplant originates). S. aethoiopicum is also called Ethiopian eggplant, bitter tomato, because they often look like a cross between a ripe tomato and an eggplant, or Pumpkin on a Stick, because some varieties look like miniature pumpkins. For more information on eggplant varieties, including their days to maturity, color and shape, origin, and more, please see my previous blog post. Eggplants are used as vegetables, even though they are technically fruits, similar to tomatoes and peppers. The most popular eggplant varieties in the United States are dark purple, bell-shaped fruits that are Italian eggplant cultivars. Elongated purple fruits also exist, usually of Asian descent, coming from Japan, China, Thailand, and India. However small, round eggplants, mini bell-shaped or elongated fruits, and those of various colors, including white, green, striped, and orange, also exist. Growing ConditionsEggplants, like tomatoes and peppers, prefer long, hot summers, although they grow quite well in northern climates by starting seeds early or buying transplants. Some newer hybrids have shorter days to maturity, but most eggplants need 60-90 days after transplanting to fully mature. If you are unfamiliar with starting plants from seed, please see my earlier blog post on “Starting Seeds.” Start seeds 6-10 weeks before transplanting outside, preferably on a heat mat. Seeds germinate at 80-90°F and grow best at 70°F after the seedlings emerge. Harden off the plants by reducing the temperature and exposing them to partial sun and wind. Once fully hardened off, transplant them into a raised bed or in-ground garden. I usually transplant my starts about 2 weeks after my average last frost date, usually the end of May to the beginning of June. If it is still cooler when transplanting, the plants will benefit from a frost cover. This will also keep insects at bay. The cover will need to be removed once the plant blossoms so pollination can occur (unless you are growing a parthenocarpic variety, which does not require pollination to set fruit. Space plants 18-24” inches apart in rows 30-36 inches apart. Because I grow my eggplants in raised beds, I do not use rows and instead plant them about 18” apart, sometimes going as small as 12”. This works okay for me because I keep my soil amended with compost and composted manure, so there are plenty of nutrients for the plants. Eggplants require fertile soil that is well-drained. Similar to other Solanum plants, they do not like wet feet. I always grow my eggplants in raised beds to ensure the best quality soil and proper drainage. If you are going to use chemical fertilizer, make sure it does not contain too much nitrogen, as this will encourage vegetative growth but not fruit set. A fertilizer designed for peppers and tomatoes also works well for eggplants. Many eggplant varieties are prolific enough that staking the plants is helpful. Some varieties are also more compact, so they do well in containers. Most varieties of eggplants do not grow bigger than about 2-3 feet tall and will still do well in containers. Pests and DiseaseEggplants are fairly disease and pest hardy, but flea beetles can be a problem, particularly when the plants are small. Colorado potato beetles also like eggplant, although not as much as potato plants. These bugs are easy to pick off but also check for orange eggs on the underside of the leaves and remove those as well. I have problems with slugs eating the fruit wherever it touches the ground. Staking the plants to keep most of the fruit off the ground is helpful. Lastly, I occasionally have aphid problems. Usually, spraying them off with strong hose water is sufficient to keep them at bay. One year I had such a problem with aphids I eventually pulled the plant because the aphids kept returning whether I sprayed them with water or even insecticidal soap. Eggplants can also be susceptible to diseases, such as Verticillium wilt. Rotating crops as much as possible can help reduce the incidence of disease. Some eggplant varieties are also disease-resistant. Harvest and UsageOnce mature, harvest the eggplant regularly, and the plant will continue to set more fruit. Eggplants are mature when the fruit is glossy, and the flesh yields slightly when pressed. If over-mature, the fruit can become bitter and seedy. If the eggplant has lost its shine, it is overripe. Eggplant is usually cooked, but some varieties can be eaten raw. Eggplants are commonly used in Italian cooking, such as Eggplant parmesan, in Asian cooking, in stir-fries and curries, and in Mediterranean cooking, such as Greek Moussaka. Eggplant generally cannot be canned, although Ball has a recipe for eggplant puttanesca (found in “The All New Ball Book of Canning and Preserving”), which is quite good. You can freeze eggplant after slicing it into 1/3-inch pieces and blanching for approximately four minutes in water containing ½ cup lemon juice per gallon of water. The lemon juice helps prevent the flesh from oxidizing and turning dark-colored. ConclusionAlthough eggplants are not my favorite to eat, I do enjoy eggplant parmesan a few times per year. I always grow at least one Italian-type and one Asian-type each season. Compared to tomatoes, they are much more disease-resistant, are lower maintenance, and take up less space in the garden. References and Resources
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AuthorIn 2016, my family and I moved from the New York City area to a small town in Wisconsin. Our move, this website and blog (and our previous Etsy store) is the result of our desire over the past several years to simplify our lives, enhance our quality of life, reconnect with nature, and enjoy a more self-sufficient life. I grew up as a country kid in central Pennsylvania, working on my grandfather's fruit farm and as a corn "de-tassler" at a local seed farm. My background is in biology, where my love of nature originated. I am a former research scientist and professor and have now transitioned to a part-time stay-at-home mom, self-employed tutor, and small business owner. Thank you for taking the time to check out my site. Archives
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